Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Khaptad National Park

Khaptad is Nepal's newest national park, receiving its designation only in 1985. It consists of 225 sq. km of forest and grassland, and lies on a plateau where the districts of Bhajhang, Bajura, Doti and Achham meet. The forest comprise a mixture of tall fir, yew, rhododendron and oak along with dense stands of bamboo and numerous shrubs, and represents one of the last remaining such areas in the lower Himalaya. The vegetation provides a natural habitat for healthy population of wildlife, including the musk and barking deer, bears various birds including the impedance pleasant. One flower. Known as Bheeg and resembling a white rose, grows in several parts of the park. It is said to be so poisonous that single sniff from close up can be lethal !
Khaptad Swami among Nepalis, Khaptad is best known as a holy site and is closely associated with a widely revert ascetic who lived here for Mandu years and who was known simply as the 'Khaptad Swami'. The origins and background of Khaptad Swami, who died in 1996 at the grand old reported age of 110, are shrouded in mystery. Some speculate that he was a doctor from India who renounced his worldly life in favor of a purely spiritual existence in a remote part if the holy Himalaya. In any event, he never divulged either his name or anything of his own life to anyone-including to King Birendra who went to consult him several occasions. He was undoubtedly a good, learned and widely read man who also had a good command of English. He lived in a cave on the eastern side of the park to where pilgrims traveled from far and wide to see him and receive his counsel and blessings. It is said that Khaptad Swami was instrumental in persuading the King to give National Park status to Khaptad. About 1 km from the Swami's cave is the small Bhagawan Shanker Mandir with a Dharmalala. Nearby is the small pond, or Pokhari, whose water is said to be lethally contaminated by the Bheeg and other toxic flowers growing around it. Symptoms of poisoning are believed to begin with joint pain, lethargy, nausea and vomiting. Some people carry lemons and chills with them as an antidote when walking through the area, through it is interesting to remember that strings of lemons and chills are also widely used elsewhere to ward off evil sprits. Fencing now surrounds the pond. The Khaptad Mela [Festival] takes place in September / October and attracts several thousand pilgrims from throughout Nepal for whom this pilgrimage is believed to be especially meritorious. Celebrations include the pouring of milk over the Linga of the Bhagawan Shanker Mandir and, reminiscent of Diwalii, the lighting of ghee lamps at night. Visiting Khaptad very few westerners ever visit Khaptad. The best time to visit is from April to September. The monsoon is relatively weak in West Nepal. At other times, snow makes travel to and through most areas impractical.

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